Kingsnakes in general are great pets, as they are docile and easily tamed. Through decades of captive breeding all types of kingsnakes, they are now available in a variety of types and color morphs. Some other common kingsnakes are California Kingsnakes, Bananas, Striped, Albinos, Grey Banded and Mexican Black. Cages should be escape proof, complete with water and hiding area. Kingsnakes and milk snakes must be housed separately (except during breeding season) because they are cannibalistic. Inexpensive enclosures such as plastic shoe or sweater boxes work well if there are ventilation holes drilled in the sides. Aquariums or home-made enclosures also work well if you want to display the snake. A variety of substrates may be used (aspen shavings, corn-cob-type rodent bedding or newspaper) to keep the animals clean, warm and dry. Kingsnakes will feed on just about anything. They will consume warm-blooded prey such as rodents and birds, as well as cold-blooded prey such as lizards and frogs (in addition to other snakes). Many species adapt well in captivity if kept between 80 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit, with a nighttime temperature drop of five to 10 degrees. Temperature control is important as it maintains feeding response and digestion. They can be kept in a 5_45-US-gallon (19_170 l; 4.2_37 imp gal) glass or acrylic aquarium. Their substrate can be wood shavings of any sort, or shredded newspaper. They need some source of heat either a pad or a lamp and daytime temperature should be around 78_82 ÁF (26_28 ÁC) with the nighttime temperatures being around 65_70 ÁF (18_21 ÁC), a basking spot should be 85_90 ÁF (29_32 ÁC). They eat strictly frozen mice, depending on the size of the snake that should be the judge of the size of the mouse. Baby snakes eat fuzzies or pinkies while adult snakes eat large mice or rats. Live mice can injure the snake and freezing can kill most of the harmful parasites. Avoid feeding it with the wood shavings because the snake can ingest it and become injured.